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HALO BTips and Techniques |
HALO Loader - Upper Feedneck Seperation
The HALO loader has a two piece feedneck. The HALO's sensors are inserted within indents at the joint of these two pieces. Under extreme situations (severe impacts, etc) a slight seperation can occur allowing the sensors to wiggle loose. Here are some solutions to prevent this from happening.
- A nylon zip tie placed as per the photo below
- A self tapping screw connecting the two halves together
HALO ASSEMBLY - Circuit Board Connector Orientation
If you disassemble your HALO loader, please note the orientation of the circuit board connectors upon reassembly. The "openings" in the connectors should face upwards on the circuit board as per the image below:
Note that the red wire and the orange wires are outtermost, and that the sensor connector (orange/yellow/blue/grey) is on the side of the board that has the 6 "pin holes" on the top edge of the board.
Backplate / Circuit Board Removal Caution
When disassembling your HALO loader, please be VERY careful removing the circuit board and/or the back plate. Note in the image below how the LED lense on the backplate OVERLAPS one of the capicitors on the circuit board. If you are not careful, you can break this capacitor off the board. When removing, by turning the board or the backplate slightly you can easily slip the LED lense by the capacitor without doing any damage.
There are three parts. The bottom cup, the spring, and then the top cone.
- Put the bottom cup on the shaft; make sure it is all the way down snug agains the e-clip.
- rotate the bottom cup so that the plastic tab is straight up/away from you (12 o'clock position) - just for reference purposes.
- place the spring in the bottom cup so that BOTH of it's tabs are to the left of the bottom cup tab. The lower tab on the spring will be just to the left of the tab (11:30 position) and that means the upper tab of the spring will be around the 10 o'clock position.
- look at the drive cone, you will see the plastic tab in it that is going to engage the spring. Put this tab in the 6 o'clock position so that is closest to you while you put it on the main shaft.
- seat it fully down - notice how about 1/2 mm of the main shaft rises ABOVE the top of the drive cone (this is important later).
ok.. at this point you have:
- bottom cup's tab straight up
- drive cone's tab straight down
- and both tabs of the spring captured between them on the LEFT side
Here's the important part:
- rotate the drive cone clockwise, until it touches the bottom cups tab (which will stop it). You will have engaged just the top tab of the spring and you'll be putting a little bit of pressure on the spring.
- now lift the drive cone straight up SLIGHTLY (maybe 1 mm) while rotating slowly clockwise and if you look closely you'll see that you can raise it so that it will go up and over the bottom cups tab BRINGING THE TOP TAB OF THE SPRING WITH YOU.
- once you are up over the bottom cup tab, snap the drive cone back down. It is now at the 1 o'clock position (on the right side of the bottom cup's tab) and you've successfully preloaded the drive spring.
One last important thing. Remember how you took note of the 1/2 mm of main shaft sticking up above the drive cone? You'll notice it likely isn't that high up right now. PRESS DOWN on the drive cone and ROCK IT BACK AND FORTH until you feel it CLICK. Then you'll see that 1/2 mm of drive shaft sticking up. Use the supplied screw and snug it down.
Your drive cone should now successfully spring back when you turn it clockwise.
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